Working our way up Kumano now, Totsukawa Village, Ebisu Sō, inn with great food, outdoor rooftop bath and, huh, look at chair: wood on back pleasingly worn, decades old, comfy as all heck after day of hiking over Hatenashi Pass, and room itself, classic: tatami in foreground, little engawa strip in back, normally bare wood, here carpeted, in-room sink (luxurious!), late-afternoon golden light in layers — tatami, shoiji, curtains (curtain stripe matching wooden frame), glass window, world beyond, the elegance of a tiled roof.