Sukiyabashi Jiro: Sushi Chef, Japanese Living Treasure

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In the summer of 2006 I was commissioned to photograph the coming together of three generations of sushi chefs — connected to each other through the passing down of training but never before together in the same room.

Jiro-san, the oldest, is in his 80s and has been recognized as a living treasure by the Japanese government. His modest restaurant (it's located next to a subway exit completely and utterly unassumingly in the basement of a office building), Sukiyabashi Jiro, is located in Ginza. Details about which can be found here (in Japanese). He serves Edomae style sushi. A lunch set of 20 pieces or so runs close to US$200.

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the jiro shootThe story goes something like: Jiro trained Shiro who ran off to Seattle, started one of the first sushi joints in the city, and trained Taiichi, who now runs his own sushi shop. Jiro also trained his son, who works at Sukiyabashi Jiro and (one assumes) plans to take over the business once his octogenarian father retires (which, according to Jiro, is when he dies). The end result of the discussion between Jiro and his son and Taiichi and Shiro was a glimpse at two similar but culturally divided looks at the state of sushi today and beyond. Throughout the two hour interview, there was a palpable tension between the traditionalists (Jiro and his son) and the American trained Taiichi and Americanized Shiro.

Aside from heated moments discussing nigiri preparation and training of sushi chefs, the discussion also veered into the effects of globalization and global warming on where fish is caught and how traditional seasonality of certain species of fish is shifting.

Jiro-san, hand on mouth
Jiro-san, hand on mouth
Jiro's hand
Jiro's hand
Jiro-san
Jiro-san
Jiro and his son
Jiro and his son
Jiro-san, hand on face
Jiro-san, hand on face
Son
Son
Son, in a rare fit of laughter
Son, in a rare fit of laughter
Shiro-san, from Seattle
Shiro-san, from Seattle
Shiro-san
Shiro-san
Shiro-san and Jiro-san
Shiro-san and Jiro-san
Shiro-san
Shiro-san
Taiichi-san, from Seattle, trained by Shiro-san
Taiichi-san, from Seattle, trained by Shiro-san
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